Another world where time has stopped – a journey through Cuban reality

Readers of the following text are kindly requested to take into account that these observations are the author's most subjective and personal experiences and that neither Cuba nor Cubans should be viewed through their prism. Instead, Cuba should be visited as soon as possible and discovered in one's own way. Before it changes completely, irreversibly and for good.

Cuba in my eyes before and after

If someone, before me a trip to Cuba, asked me what and what it reminded me of, I would probably answer that it was old cars, Che Guevara, Cuban cigars held in the teeth of colorfully dressed old Cubans, mojitos, hot salsa rhythms and the music of Buena Vista Social Club. I also expected delicious Caribbean cuisine, I knew something about Santeria - a syncretic religion practiced in Cuba. However, like all ideas, these were verified after personal contact with the island. Some were confirmed, others were not, and still others were simply modified.

Szwarc soap and jam, or everything and nothing

Traces of revolution can be found here at every step, its spirit is in the air, making everyday life of Cubans difficult. Cuba is, in a word and in simplified terms, let's say, a kind of Poland from the times of the Polish People's Republic. Its image is brought to mind by empty store shelves and windows, on which there is everything possible to make them more attractive and attract customers. These procedures, paradoxically, have an unintended effect. The average Cuban counts every penny, and a "wealthy" tourist, in the eyes of the islanders, is unlikely to be tempted by these store goods. Well, unless it is within the framework of truly eccentric preferences in the matter of souvenirs from the trip. Salaries in Cuba are really low and barely enough for basic needs.

Cubans earn in local currency (CUP – pesos nacional), which is much less valuable than the tourist currency (CUC – pesos convertible), which visitors pay in practically everywhere except for small street bars where locals eat. One gets the impression that Cuba is dominated by three types of shops: local artists' painting galleries, souvenir shops (often original and creative handicrafts of the "something from nothing" type) and textile shops, because, interestingly, it is hard to find in Cuba what we are so used to – clothing shops. Cubans are therefore forced to sew their own clothes from materials available in shops, or, as is common in Trinidad, ask tourists for clothes. More than once I have been asked there to tell me what I am wearing, or to bring some clothes from my suitcase to a specified place and time. A Cuban woman is even willing to wait for you, and you can come back and bring some unnecessary bits and bobs. Perhaps Cubans have become accustomed to the fact that tourists from "rich" countries will always give them something back. It is useless to explain that I have a long journey ahead of me and I need a change of clothes, or that I am not as rich as they imagine, and coming to Cuba means years of financial sacrifice. It is a different world, different categories, and it is completely understandable that such arguments are inappropriate. We simply have to accept this, and before traveling to Cuba, if we have room in our luggage, let's just take some unnecessary summer clothes or jewelry and hair accessories that children will go crazy over, or nail polishes for teenagers and adult women.

Cubans take great care of their appearance, so there is no shortage of modest hairdressing and beauty salons, where, of course (!), men also undergo simple treatments. Walking along the streets of cities and towns, we will often pass equally inconspicuous manicure salons. In their open, barred windows, we will see ladies of almost every age, undergoing care and beautification treatments for their nails. They also like to dress up, which is why they are happy with nice clothes. The ready-made items of clothing that I saw most often for sale were white knitted lace dresses, offered at bazaars and shops, where tourists are offered various souvenirs, mainly handmade. These, such as baseball caps and toy cars made from drinks cans, or handbags made from the tabs of these cans, can really surprise you. In large cities, such as Havana, you can find larger shops that look more like covered bazaars, as well as open-air markets. Here, Cubans have a small selection of clothes and shoes. The question is whether everyone can afford them. Among the trinkets thrown into the baskets, and especially those hanging on hangers, the most eye-catching may be the fancy dresses that young Cubans wear for the great celebration of turning 15. At that time, the girl is treated like a real princess, and the family does everything they can to make this day of entering adulthood as special and memorable as possible, ordering, if they can afford it, even a special photo session for the "quinceañera".

Everyone plows as they can

The shelves in grocery stores and pharmacies are mostly empty, and some food products are still available on ration cards. However, none of them have revolutionary slogans and portraits of Fidel, Che or Camilo Cienfuegos on their walls, whose cult is still alive here. Although, on the other hand, conversations with young Cubans show that the sentiment for the revolution is fading away along with the growing quiet frustration of the young generation. No wonder, since Cubans, who earn money in the local national currency, can barely afford to support themselves and their children, and the situation often forces them to extort money from bewildered tourists for this purpose. And they reach for various methods, counting, for example, on buying two packets of powdered milk in exchange for showing them a "historic" and "unique" courtyard in a colonial tenement house, of which there are many in Havana. Not only do we find out that we are buying two, not one, packages of milk as we agreed, while we are already standing at the counter, but we are also left with a slight sense of dissatisfaction and surprise mixed with a small dose of so-called confusion and disorientation. It slowly dawns on us that the courtyard in question was not unique in any way. In a colonial building, yes, but in Havana it is nothing unusual or unusual, but at the same time just as neglected, neglected, gnawed by the ravages of time and destroyed as a result of the general economic situation of the country as many others here. Although, of course, there are exceptions. Where local guesthouses, the so-called casas particulares, operate, they may be in much better condition.

Other enterprising Cubans, dressed up as Comandante Che, will extend their hand with a broad smile for payment when we wave friendly from the roof of a tourist bus and take a picture of the hero, even if our intention is only to show off the photo to friends after returning from vacation. Still others will ask for help directly, e.g. a pen for the children for school (it is worth taking some, so common and everyday for us, pens when going to Cuba) or two CUCs for food. Considering Cuban wages, for us this is no luxury, for a Cuban it makes a difference. CUC - the so-called tourist currency, as I mentioned above, is worth much more than the national currency in which salaries are paid. That is why in most places, i.e. for accommodation in casas particulares (a form of earning money permitted by the Cuban authorities, burdened with a considerable tax), in pubs or shops and at souvenir markets, we will pay in CUCs. Restaurateurs are reluctant to agree to pay in CUP, and if they do agree, they sometimes like to round up the amount after conversion.

"Gud prajs maj frend" in the Cuban edition

Cubans are aware of the attraction that Cuban cigars have for visitors from a distant world. However, it is worth being careful if we want to buy original products. On the one hand, it is easier to buy a good quality, unbranded cigar from a regular at the pub on the corner, who is himself a passionate fan of them, than to be tempted by a not-so-cheap box of Cohiba or Monte Cristo offered by someone whose family works in a cigar factory in Havana. Especially if we were brought to such a person's house by another Cuban and everyone is extraordinarily nice to us, chatting in a friendly way in an idyllic home atmosphere about our stay in Cuba, and finally getting down to specifics, i.e. the commercial offer. We are never sure whether such an attractive box is not in fact a set of goods filled with low-quality tobacco, of which only the label with the name is original and actually comes straight from the factory. There is neither a rule here nor certainty. It is best to have such a trusted "seller" on recommendation. A box of cigars obtained through employment in the factory by family or friends will additionally be sealed with a sticker with a banderole. For the rest, who do not complain about the lack of cash, there is still the option of buying the original packaging at the airport in Havana. Then we have a 100% guarantee of the original origin and quality of the goods. On the subject of cigars, for sure many of you, like me, Cuba is associated with the image of a colorfully dressed older Cuban woman with a turban on her head and a cigar in her teeth. Well, you must be aware that this is also a way to earn additional income. A photo with such a beautiful lady, or even a portrait of this lady, also involves a fee. Well, you have to cope somehow living in Cuba. However, it is nice to support a Cuban, whose gratitude in his eyes and emotion are remembered for a lifetime. Just like a simple farmer from whom somewhere on the route, by the sugar cane field, we bought an entire board of delicious white cheese, which he had to sell that day. We paid in CUCAs because we didn't have enough national currency. I got the impression that this honest man had never held such a sum of tourist currency in his hand, he was so disoriented. However, you also have to be careful what you buy from street vendors, so as not to accidentally buy something that should be protected. In the area around Baracoa, Cubans offer souvenirs in the form of colorful snail shells, which are an endemic species.

"Coco loco" on the beach and "old pants" on a plate

What Cuba certainly does not lack is good old rum. The best kind. And I am not only talking about the well-known and popular Cuban brand with the capital in its name, which is already available in Poland. It is also worth trying local brands on the hot island, which you will not find anywhere else outside of Cuba. The local mojito tastes like no other in the world, I have to admit that. I remember it best, prepared in the bar at the hotel lobby. National de Cuba in Havana, but maybe it tasted so good because it was the first one I drank during holidays in Cuba…Very likely. They say you never forget your first time. I will definitely not forget this taste and refreshment on a hot day. But drinks based on Cuban rum are not only the famous mojito or the popular Cuba libre. It is also worth tasting Ernest Hemingway's favorite drink, the Daiquiri or the sweetness of honey immersed in a cocktail called La Canchanchara. Not to mention the delight of a pina colada sipped lazily on the beach. Since we are on the beach, in these natural circumstances there must be "Coco loco". This funny name means rum poured directly into coconut milk in a skillfully opened (sometimes with a machete) coconut. An attraction in itself and a delight for the palate. Just don't overdo it with the rum, and here, you have to know, Cubans never regret it and pour, of course, from the heart. Because there is no shortage of rum in Cuba. Just like coconut. But also all kinds of exotic, often unknown to us, fruits. You can buy them directly from sellers on the street or at local bazaars, where, as well as in makeshift shops in the gates, your eyes will be struck by the image of large pieces of meat hanging on hooks or lying on makeshift counters. Such a picture in the almost 40-degree heat may not look inviting, but it is common. In rural farmsteads, Cubans breed dark-colored pigs. Perhaps, if you come across a farm of a well-off farmer, such a pig will go straight from the pigsty to the grill and then to your plate. On the other hand, when dining in any restaurant, you will find on the menu a simple, popular in the Caribbean, dish with the charming name "La ropa vieja". Loosely translated, it means, not more or less, the same as "old underpants" or, as some prefer, "old rags". And it looks almost exactly like its name, like a worn-out, old rag for wiping the floor. It may not sound appetizing, but I assure you, it tastes quite good, and is served with rice and black beans, which are common in Cuba. These are two typical ingredients of the national dish and Cuban cuisine, and the latter is quite simple, not to say poor and monotonous. You shouldn't expect any delicacies here if you want to get to know real life in Cuba, from the kitchen, literally. Well, unless you eat in hotels, in resorts, which have much less in common with authentic Cuba.

In Cubans' homes we will eat like them, in some cases, the daily breakfast menu will be a bit more varied, e.g. with simple cold cuts, cocoa or jam. However, the basis is eggs. A product that is not lacking in stores, will appear on your tables every day, in various forms, but most often an omelet. Sometimes sprinkled with green onion, sometimes with cheese, sometimes with pieces of sausage. At some point, you can even miss a simple canned pâté. Here I refer to the joy that the sight of cans of pâté neatly arranged on a store shelf... attention... with the familiar-sounding name "Polka" could arouse in Trinidad! And indeed, no more and no less, it was our export product. But how can an ordinary pâté taste after an egg diet! Nevertheless, the real breakfast delicacy that we never had enough of during our trip to Cuba was fruit and freshly squeezed juices. After the fruit in Cuba, nothing bought in Poland will ever bring back the taste of guava, mango or papaya (note that in Cuba they use the name "La fruta bomba", because the word papaya refers to the female genitals!). There is also no shortage of bread here. Fresh and fragrant rolls are baked every day in bakeries and I dare say that there is more bread in them than in what is currently baked in the so-called civilized Western world. I also spied cans of olive oil under the shop counters, but sometimes you have to go all the way down town to find bottled carbonated water. Such a shortage surprised us and other visitors we met one day in Trinidad. And in Cuba it is better to drink carbonated water, which is less exposed to the development of suspicious bacterial flora in the bottle, and the bubbles supposedly have a beneficial and protective effect on our intestines in those conditions, accustomed to other bacteria. I remember that my travel companion and I ended up in a store where we not only found the aforementioned Polish pâté, but were very positively surprised about the luggage storage. Before entering the hall, there was a cabinet with open shelves where you could leave all kinds of purses, bags and backpacks. No one was guarding it in particular and no one… even tried to take someone else's property, which was of course a positively unusual phenomenon for us.

It was equally incomprehensible to me how cheaply you can eat homemade ice cream, drink the best espresso in the world and snack on a mini version of a thick-crust pizza popular in Cuba, consisting mainly of cheese and tomato sauce. Somewhere, in a side street of Havana, in a simple street bar where Cubans eat, I got all this, converted into złoty, for ... 1,70 PLN! And believe me, the taste of that coffee, poured from a thermos, has not been repeated anywhere to this day. Sometimes we come across axe coffee in Cuba, really strongly and long-roasted, as according to the farmer who treated us to it, the Indians - the indigenous inhabitants of the island - used to prepare its beans. The taste of such a roasted drink is a matter of taste. A barista friend of mine, a specialist in coffees of all origins, for example, turned his nose up at it a lot when I brought him some beans as a gift. And the stories about the indigenous Indian tribes on the Caribbean mainland were of no use. Another common drink in Cuba is sugar cane juice. Freshly squeezed, we can buy it, for example, at Hemingway's house, near Havana, where we can try to squeeze it ourselves from a special machine, which is no easy task at all. This is one of those places where I noticed the aforementioned generosity with which rum is poured into the drink. Here, the drink is not eagerly counted down to the last line in a small 50-milliliter measure; here, it is poured straight from the bottle, abundantly and without converting it into money. I sincerely recommend a mixture of sugar cane juice and rum. However, I advise you to approach Cuban establishments with caution, or rather with curiosity, which I would compare to our milk bars, where the inhabitants of the island eat every day. The Cuban version of spaghetti in such a place is pasta with minced meat straight from a can, and the fruit milkshake tastes... quite specific and... risky. Yuka also has an intriguing taste, which was praised by a certain gourmet in Trinidad. His favorite dish didn't exactly impress us. That's just a matter of culinary taste. All my traveling companions, however, were delighted with the seafood and ordered it whenever they had the chance. The giant lobsters were the most popular. I'm not a fan of any sea creatures on a plate, except for fish, but the lobsters made a visual impression on me every time and I'm inclined to believe that they were indeed delicious.

Living museum of motoring

Just like rum, old cars are omnipresent in Cuba. It must be admitted that in this respect, motoring enthusiasts will not be disappointed. Personally, I do not distinguish between car brands, and I was also, as a complete layman, enchanted. Before leaving, I imagined that I would probably see some old treasures in the capital. As it turned out, there was no end to the delights throughout the entire journey from Havana to Baracoa on the eastern end of the island. Cuba can owe one thing to the legacy of the revolution and its economic and economic isolation from the rest of the world; the fact that it has become, as it were, and by accident, the most beautiful living museum of motoring on the planet. An open-air museum, collecting gems that many a wealthy collector would have a craving for. Although, presumably, Cubans see it from their perspective quite differently. It is all the more admirable that in a country where deficits affect almost every branch of industry, and most goods are intended for export or for tourists, the owners of these monuments know how to keep them running. Because while their appearance varies; some shine and serve as luxurious, and therefore slightly more expensive, taxis, others, shabby, succumb to rust and the passage of time, surprisingly, all of them still serve faithfully, proudly driving along the streets of Cuba. And all of these wonderful Cadillacs, Buicks, Chevrolets, Dodges and Jaguars are already decades old. It is amazing that despite the lack of spare parts, such a wonder from the 40s and 50s is still working.

I don't know how Cubans do it, but as far as I'm concerned, every owner of such a car in Cuba should receive a medal of a master car mechanic. They know their stuff like few others, which we could experience after our van's unfortunate contact with a high curb. In the blink of an eye, several Cubans appeared around us and quickly dealt with the fault. I will also never forget the ride in an old car from that period, in which my travel companion and I reached the beach in Trinidad. All the cables were exposed, the dashboard was practically missing, but the upholstery, yes, was top-notch, and most importantly, I don't know how it drove, but it did. And so these beautiful exhibits drive all over the island, not just in Havana, as I had initially imagined. Because there, it is as common a sight as Western cars on our streets. They simply don't have any others. Oh, sorry, there are cars that are common in our country, for example, although they are also rare here and treated rather as a vintage delicacy. I am talking about the Fiat 126p, affectionately called "Polaquito" in Cuba, meaning "Polaczek". You can also come across Russian Ladas. What I fear with the forecasted opening of Cuba to the world and the possibly big changes associated with it, is that Cubans, not knowing the value of these treasures, forced by their difficult situation, will get rid of them for next to nothing, to the delight of the collectors' world. It is somehow sad to think that this living museum may one day scatter around the world... Time will tell. Until then, we have to make use of it. Because for a few CUCs, you can easily drive around Cuban cities in a vintage car. Unofficially, apart from legal, marked, yellow-painted taxis, there are also, let's call it, private taxi services. Cubans offer tourists a lift for a pre-agreed amount. All you have to do is approach the owner of the car and ask about this possibility. And although hitchhiking is also an official part of transport services in Cuba, you have to remember that the pesos for such a lift are due to the official stopping cars for travelers. Therefore, if we hitchhike ourselves, it is worth giving the driver a few pennies directly. For us, it is a small expense, and for him, it may help patch up the household budget.

Post scriptum

What is striking in Cuba is poverty. Poverty hidden in the ruined, collapsing colonial buildings of Havana, where the poorest live without electricity, on mattresses, between makeshift walls of sheets... Poverty in contrast to the joyful smiles on the faces of Cubans. Are they really that joyful? I have the impression that in this joy, in their eyes, there is often some unspecified sadness hidden, maybe longing? For what? Maybe that is why they drown out their gray, simple everyday life, full of struggles for a decent existence, or maybe it would be better to say, they embellish it, with the lively rhythm of hot salsa? Because what else do they have left? On the other hand, we can envy them a little. Precisely this simplicity, authenticity, in which they have preserved the most important values ​​in life, which we, people of the rich Western civilization, unfortunately often lack. Cut off from the world of consumerism, far from the pursuit of technical novelties, from everything that seems so necessary and undeniably essential to life, the inhabitants of Cuba live in closeness, in relationships, building bonds that Facebook and virtual reality have replaced for us. Cubans are real. Maybe it is the care of spirits, those who have already passed away, in which, according to the Santeria religion, they believe, that helps them live life to the fullest? Despite poverty and the limitations imposed by the state apparatus. We probably know this from our own history. When faith and spiritual life and simple joys made us stronger, and our lives, at least a little more colorful. Maybe that is why their different, backwater world can delight, attract and enchant us so much. Or maybe it is pure sentiment? Certainly, for known, historical reasons, we understand and perceive Cubans differently than the Western world. Because the world of Cuba is less complex. For me, it has three faces, three faces: revolution, Santeria and music. But this is a topic for another, separate story.

 *All photos come from the author's private archive.