A journey through unearthly wilderness – a tour of Bolivia and Chile

We leave behind the dry, sandy landscape and enter a completely different reality. The snow-white surface perfectly matches the blue sky. Pale shapes of volcanoes are visible on the horizon. We are not in Antarctica. It is hot. The Red Hot Chili Peppers are playing in the speakers of our jeep, and we are speeding through the world's largest salt flat - Salar de Uyuni. The unlimited sense of freedom is intensified by the lack of any reference in this unlimited space. Ahead of us is a several-day expedition through the Altiplano. The route leads from the Bolivian city of Uyuni to the Chilean town of San Pedro de Atacama. Fasten your seatbelts and open your eyes wide, because this will be a journey to the moon!

Uyuni Salt Flats

Uyuni Salt Flats It is such a unique place on a global scale that we decided that it would be the proverbial cherry on the cake of our sightseeing tour Bolivia i Chile. Our adventure begins in the small town of Uyuni, which is the gateway to the largest salt flat in the world. We are at an altitude of 3670 m above sea level. This dusty and somewhat sleepy town comes to life in the morning, when 4×4 vehicles pull up to the hotels, taking tourists on tours of the Salar. The car can comfortably fit six people with luggage. We pack all our equipment, because the finish line of our journey will be in Chile, in the Atacama Desert. We take a supply of water and snacks for the road. For the next three days, our driver will be Marco - a jovial and bawdy Bolivian, who knows these areas very well. He will be our guide, cook, and sometimes even photographer. So we pack our luggage on the roof of the jeep and set off.

Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia

The first stop is already 3 km from Uyuni – it is a train cemetery. Abandoned skeletons of locomotives and wagons transported minerals from the Andes to ports on the Pacific Ocean until the 40s. However, the mining industry collapsed and Bolivia lost access to the ocean, while trains ended their lives in this wasteland near Uyuni. The cemetery is a truly peculiar sight, the trains are decorated with interesting graffiti or sayings and golden thoughts. It is also an interesting scenery for photographers, you can climb on the locomotive and look at the distant horizon, on which volcanic cones loom. Before entering the salt pan, we stop in a small settlement of Colchani, whose inhabitants are engaged in salt extraction and processing. This is the last place where you can buy souvenirs from Salar de Uyuni. So we buy salt in various varieties – pure, crystalline, but also with garlic and chili. I also stock up on cream with a high UV filter. At an altitude of 4000 m above sea level, the weather can be particularly treacherous – the wind makes it impossible to feel the strong radiation of the sun.

Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia

We finally reach Salar de Uyuni, and our eyes meet the long-awaited view. The white sheet of salt stretches to the horizon. Somewhere in the distance, mountains loom, but they are like a mirage. This salt desert, located at an altitude of 3653 m above sea level, is a remnant of a salt lake that existed in the Pleistocene, then connected with Titicaca and Poopo into one lake called Ballivian. It covers a huge area of ​​almost 11 thousand km² and it is also one of the flattest regions in the world. We rush through this endless space in a jeep and look for the perfect place for a photo session. Marco turns out to be a specialist in playing with perspective. He pulls out ideas for new arrangements for subsequent photos as if from his sleeve. We liked the walk on a shoelace stretched between two shoes, recorded in slow motion the most. At one time we are tiny like dwarves trying to protect themselves from the giant's huge foot, and at another time - like little dolls we stand on his hand. After an hour of photographic fun we go to Incahuasi Island - the biggest attraction of the salt flat. This mountainous and rocky piece of land is the remains of a volcano that was partially covered by the waters of a prehistoric lake, about 40.000 years ago. A unique species of cactus grows on the island, which reaches a height of 2 to 10 meters. After 15 minutes of walking along a narrow path, we reach a viewpoint with a magnificent panorama of the salt desert. It is undoubtedly the most beautiful view on Earth, although it is hard to believe that we are still on the same planet.

Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia

For lunch we reach a restaurant built from salt blocks. Here, in turn, it is time for a photo session at the monument commemorating the Dakar Rally, which took place here for the first time in 2014, and at the island with flags – one of the salt flats’ calling cards.

Incahuasi Island, Bolivia

Salt hotels

The day full of excitement ends with a sunset in the desert, but it turns out that this is not the end of the attractions. We will spend the night in the middle of the desert in a hotel built of salt! It turns out that not only the walls and floors are made of salt, also the beds, benches and armchairs. Bolivians have used their resources in an extremely creative way to create one of the most unique attractions in the world. The raw interiors made of stone, wood and of course salt have been warmed up by colorful local accessories. Bolivian fabrics and carpets reign supreme, wooden furniture and stylish lamps. At night, from the terrace of our hotel you can admire the starry sky with the Milky Way in the main role.

Hotel Palacio del Sal in the Atacama Desert

The most iconic property on Salar de Uyuni is the Palacio de Sal hotel, near Colchani. The ceiling of each room is decorated with an igloo-style salt dome, giving the rooms a unique charm. The hotel also has a spa, a swimming pool and even a salt golf course! The beds have built-in heating, so you won't be afraid of cold Bolivian nights. This hotel will satisfy the most demanding guests.

Hotel del Sal Luna Salada

Colorful lagoons, flamingos and rock formations

The next day of our Bolivia and Chile tour promises to be even more exciting. We leave the region of the great salt flats and head south, towards Paso de Leon and the Eduardo Avaroa Reserve, often rising to an altitude of over 4000 m above sea level. Altitude sickness is a constant pain. However, coca leaf tea effectively helps to alleviate its effects. The landscape seems out of this world. I rub my eyes in amazement and wonder if it's not the effect of the miraculous tea... This lunar landscape is full of life! A herd of vicunas walks along the road, and hundreds of flamingos wade in the lagoon! In the distance, the massive cone of the Ollague volcano looms. That day, we stop at four fabulous lagoons: Cañapa, Hedionda and Chiarcota, but the most impressive one is Laguna Colorada with its characteristic burgundy color. It owes its color to algae, and the white spots on its surface are borax islands. Each of the lagoons has something captivating about it, each is different, but what unites them all are the flamingos. The Bolivian Altiplano is inhabited by three species of Andean flamingos. Hundreds of them wade through each of the lagoons, giving the austere landscape an incredible charm and a warm pink color.

Laguna Colorada, Bolivia

Kicking up clouds of dust, we race through the Siloli desert to see extraordinary rock formations, including a 5-meter-high rock tree (Arbol de Piedra in Spanish). The wind carries not only sand but also salt, which further enhances the erosion effect on the rocks here. The base of the "tree" is made of quartz, which is sensitive to wind, while the upper part is largely made of iron ore, which makes it more resistant to erosion and thus gives the rock the shape of a huge tree.

Laguna Colorada, Bolivia

We spend the next night at an altitude of 4300 m above sea level, also in a hotel built of salt blocks. The conditions are a bit more modest, because we are practically in a complete wilderness, far from civilization. The evening is brightened by Bolivian wine. Well, not everyone associates Bolivia with grape growing, meanwhile in the Tarija Valley there are about 2,5 thousand hectares of vineyards, from which the grapes come, intense in flavor, because they ripen at an altitude of 3000 m above sea level. Salud!

Laguna Hedionda, Bolivia

Geysers, Geothermal Pools and Salvador Dalí's Desert

The last day in Bolivia starts exceptionally early, as we head to the Sol de Manana geysers, which are most active at sunrise. This geothermally active area covers an area of ​​10 km² and is located at an altitude of 4850 m above sea level. The phenomenon that we have the opportunity to observe makes us quickly forget about waking up early and drinking wine the night before. We walk between geysers and pools of mud and boiling water, admiring the untamed forces of nature. Hot steam rises at a height of 15 meters, and an irritating stench of sulfur emerges from the depths of the earth. Then we leave the geysers to move to a region that is a bit more friendly to humans, where you can immerse yourself in warm geothermal springs. After less than an hour's drive, we reach the Polques Hot Springs, created by the volcanic activity of the nearby Polques volcano. This day could not have started better! Although it is true that undressing down to a swimsuit at a temperature of 0°C is quite a challenge, the water in the pools already reaches 29°C. This bath is the perfect culmination of a three-day journey through the Altiplano, it turns out, however, that this is not the end! There are still a few dozen kilometres to the border with Chile ahead of us. Crossing the Eduardo Navaroa Reserve, we reach an area called the Salvador Dalí desert. The raw, surreal landscape is disturbingly beautiful, like the works of this Spanish artist. After a dozen or so minutes, the surfaces of the last two lagoons emerge from this endless space - green and white. Laguna Verde owes its colour to deposits of arsenic and magnesium, which minerals, stirred by the wind, give the water colours from turquoise to deep emerald. Apparently, the water in the lagoon can be as hot as -56°C, and its liquid state is due to the presence of these minerals in its composition. Above the lagoons rises the majestic cone of the Licancabur volcano (5920 m above sea level).

Arbol de Piedra, the Siloli Desert

The time to say goodbye to beautiful Bolivia is slowly approaching. We reach the border with Chile, where an exceptionally thorough customs control awaits us. On the other side, the Atacama stretches before us – the driest area in the world.

Mano del Desierto, Atacama Desert

Atacama Desert

Our journey continues ahead a sightseeing tour of Bolivia and Chile! We say goodbye to Marco at the border. On the other side, a Chilean driver is waiting for us to take us to another border control. Chile has strict phytosanitary regulations: when entering the country, you must fill out a customs declaration and declare all fruit, vegetables, animal products, seeds and plants. At the border, luggage is thoroughly checked, and if previously undeclared plant or animal products are found, very high fines are imposed, up to USD 400. Even at such a rarely used border crossing as the one with Bolivia, checks are carried out in great detail.

Atacama Desert

After an hour we reach the town San Pedro de Atacama. We are at an altitude of 2400 m above sea level and immediately feel that more oxygen is flowing into our lungs. We are staying in an atmospheric hotel built of burnt adobe brick. Its appearance and interior design refers to the architecture of the town and the harsh landscape of the Atacama Desert. For a few days it will be our base for day trips around the area. The town itself is a small oasis with numerous restaurants, cafes and tourist agencies organizing trips around the Atacama. We will also find a large selection of currency exchange offices where you can exchange bolivianos and US dollars for Chilean pesos.

Geysers in the Atacama Desert

The Atacama Desert is the driest place on our planet. In some areas, not a single drop of rain has been recorded for 450 years! Two sandy-salt valleys are worth special attention - the Moon Valley (Valle de la Luna) and the Death Valley (Valle de la Muerte). Here you can observe interesting geological formations, shaped by centuries of wind erosion, as well as huge sand dunes, which you can slide down on a sandboard. Both valleys are located near San Pedro and are the most popular destination for excursions. In the Atacama area, we will also find the wonderful high-mountain lagoons Chaxa, Miscanti and Miñiques located in the Flamingo Reserve and the Tatio geysers, located at an altitude of 4200 m above sea level.

On the way to Lascar

Meanwhile, we – tempted by the views of volcanic cones for several days – decide to trek to the active Lascar volcano, 5592 meters above sea level. After several days of trekking travel through Bolivia and staying at high altitudes, we are already quite well acclimatized. Apart from that, trekking is not very demanding - good physical condition, comfortable trekking shoes and acclimatization are the three main conditions that must be met to reach the summit of the volcano. We leave the hotel in jeeps at 5 am and after a 2-hour drive we are at a beautiful lagoon, in which the snow-capped mountain peaks are reflected. This is a dream scenery for breakfast! Fresh guacamole with crispy bread and excellent coffee - what more could you want? The last briefing before the start of the trek and we set off. The jeeps take us to an altitude of 4600 m, from where we begin our hike on a steep slope. Step by step, steady breathing, listening to the body and mind. Trekking at such an altitude is something like meditation. After 2 hours we reach the first destination: below me is the huge crater of the Lascar volcano, filled with tons of ash and pyroclastic material. I see cracks from which smoke is rising. Behind me, a landscape that could be the setting for a science fiction film. Red-brown mountains are covered here and there with patches of snow, and in the distance, a desert plateau stretches. This is not the end of the climb: the highest peak of the volcano is about 300 meters higher. This section is already a real challenge. I really start to feel the altitude - after taking ten steps, I need a minute's break to calm my breathing and fight the nausea that is increasingly appearing. There is no way I can contemplate the views anymore. The last few dozen meters before the summit are already about working on myself, on my psyche and listening to my body. I will probably remember these moments more than the few minutes spent on the top of the volcano, where I only take a few souvenir photos and quickly descend, escaping the strong wind and ailments. Lascar has been conquered! Thank you!

Night sky over the Atacama Desert

We celebrate our success in the evening with a bottle of good Chilean wine. The expedition through the lunar land is coming to an end and the next day we fly to Santiago, where we will catch our plane back home. We look at the sky dotted with a million stars, absorbing the positive vibrations that the universe sends us. The south of Bolivia and the Atacama turned out to be space in a nutshell. Is there anything else that can surprise us after this trip? I hope so, because our appetite for the world is constantly growing, and around every bend there is something even more surprising and astonishing.

Natural Treasures of the Andes: An Incredible Journey Through Latin America

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Natural Treasures of the Andes. An Incredible Journey Through Latin America | Lima, Arequipa, Colca Canyon, Puno, Lake Titicaca, Copacabana, Isla del Sol, La Paz, Salar de Uyuni, San Pedro de Atacama, Santiago de Chile
Traveling through three South American countries will allow you to discover the differences and similarities between Peru, Bolivia and Chile. You will visit the three capitals of these countries and the most popular attractions that attract tourists to these beautiful and picturesque areas.