One of the most famous Georgian legends says that when God was giving away the land, all the nations lined up, arguing about the richest, most valuable land. Only the Georgians sat down to one side, brought out wine and food, and indulged in feasting. They only realized after the fact that God had already given away the entire land. Only the most beautiful piece remained, which the creator wanted to keep for himself. However, captivated by the ability of Georgians to enjoy life and feast carefree, he decided to give them his share – that is why, according to Georgians, their country is the most beautiful in the world. So we invite you to read the second part of the Georgian alphabet and of course – in trip to Georgia!

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Baths

"There is no greater pleasure than bathing in the Tbilisi banya," Pushkin wrote years ago. And he was right! Ttbili means "warm" in Georgian, so the name "Tbilisi” can be translated as “hot springs”, and according to it, there is no shortage of hot, sulfur springs and baths based on them in the city. According to legend, the springs here were discovered in the 5th century by King Vakhtang I Gorgasali. While hunting, he released his falcon, and when it fought a pheasant, both birds fell into the hot sulfur spring – and were cooked. Another version of this legend says that the same king wounded a deer with an arrow, whose wound healed when the animal jumped into the sulfur spring. Whatever the case, it has been known since the XNUMXth century that the local waters have healing properties, and it was these properties that caused the capital to be moved here from Mtskheta in the XNUMXth century. Today, when spending an evening in the oldest district of the city, Abanotubani, it is worth visiting the famous Orbeliani sulphur bath, which some mistake for a mosque – the stunning oriental architecture and intricate blue and white mosaics are eye-catching and indeed bring to mind the mosques rising in not-so-distant Iran. If, however, you fancy a less refined, but still typically Georgian experience, head to the famous public sulphur bath No. XNUMX and surrender yourself to the hands of the bath attendants, who will mercilessly scrub you with a rough washcloth!

Tbilisi – Orbeliani Baths

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Marshrutka

It will go anywhere, take you anywhere and stop anywhere (unless it snows and covers the road…). Small buses of various standards, dash back and forth, have no timetable, and fixed stops – only in larger cities. So is getting around them a problem? Under no circumstances – not! Just stop by the road and wave at a passing marshrutka. It doesn’t hurt to check what is written on the sign behind the windscreen, but sometimes the information is only in Georgian, which makes it rather impossible to read… No problem! The driver will tell you where he is going anyway. Moreover, marshrutkas are ridiculously cheap, thanks to which your trip around Georgia can be very pocket-friendly.

Mtskheta

If you want to visit Georgian Krakow, be sure to go to Mtskheta, the former capital of Georgia and one of the oldest cities in the country. Although it does not resemble Krakow in terms of architecture or size, similarly to the City of Krakow, the heart of the country beat here for centuries – it was here that coronations, weddings and funerals of kings took place, and just like Krakow, full of monuments, including those inscribed on the UNESCO list, it is considered one of the most important and beautiful cities in the country. Undoubtedly, it is worth seeing the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, which stands on the site of the first Christian church from the 6th century. Its reconstruction carried out in the 11th century was so successful that King George II is said to have ordered the architect's hand to be cut off so that he would not be able to create an equally magnificent building later. Maybe you will even notice a severed hand holding a chisel on the façade? The blackened frescoes, illuminated by the sun shining through the narrow windows, emerge from behind a curtain of candle and incense smoke, giving the impression of being almost alive...

Georgia – the wine trail to the foot of the Caucasus

Georgia – the wine trail to the foot of the Caucasus | Tbilisi, Sighnaghi, Kakheti, Stepantsminda
Georgia – a country famous for its beautiful landscapes and friendly people! Set off on a wonderful journey during which you will pamper your senses – you will taste delicious cuisine in Signagi, be enchanted by the mountain landscapes of the Truso Valley and the unique architecture in Tbilisi, and during your stay in the wine region of Kakheti you will taste delicious Georgian wine while enjoying the picturesque scenery. A trip to Georgia with Planet Escape is a ready recipe for an unforgettable adventure.

Another interesting religious building is the Jvari (Holy Cross) monastery built on the highest hill of Mtskheta, which takes its name from the wooden cross that was supposedly erected in the place where St. Nino prayed. The church, built in the late 6th century, is one of the oldest monasteries in Georgia, and its layout was later copied by many other Georgian temples.

Mtskheta – Jvari Monastery

Mixed race

Mestia, a small town shaded on both sides by the mighty peaks of the High Caucasus, is the capital of Upper Svaneti, one of the highest inhabited regions of Georgia. The spiteful compare it to Zakopane, but even if this comparison could be justified to some extent, it would have to be Zakopane from at least 90 years ago – when it was already popular, but still retained the elusive atmosphere of a small, mountainous town. Today, many tourists come here, but the streets are not crowded – there are few restaurants and bars here, so travelers spend their time wandering the nearby trails rather than engaging in cafe life. If you are lucky, you will be able to fly to Mestia – the view of the snow-capped peaks of the Caucasus right under the belly of the plane will remain in your memory forever! However, the most interesting attraction of Mestia is definitely the Svaneti defensive and residential towers, thanks to which the town resembles a fortified castle.

Mestia – stone towers

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Skis 

Although Georgia is not commonly associated with skiing, but contrary to appearances, this sport is quite popular here! Three ski resorts are particularly recommendable here: Gudauri, Hatsvali and Tetnuldi. The first one, located about 120 km from Tbilisi, is also the oldest in Georgia - it was established in 1988 and today enjoys great popularity. Skiers have 14 lifts at their disposal, reaching an altitude of 3276 m. The total length of the trails is 70 km, divided according to the level of difficulty: for beginners, intermediate, advanced and professional skiers, as well as for freeriding enthusiasts. In the vicinity of Mestia, two modern resorts have been built: Hatsvali with a year-round lift, which takes tourists to an altitude of 2300 m above sea level, to the peak of Mt. Zuruldi, and Tetnuldi Ski Resort, opened in 2015. Tetnuldi is the second largest ski resort in Georgia after Gudauri, stretching at an altitude of 2260–3165 m above sea level. The total length of the ski trails is 30 km, and they also have the largest vertical drop of 1,7 km. This is a great place to practice all types of skiing, while in the summer you can paraglide, ride horses or hike in the mountains, admiring the breathtaking view of Ushba.

Gudauri, the most famous Georgian ski resort

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Okatse

Okatse Canyon is one of Georgia's newest attractions in the area of ​​Gordi. A system of footbridges and jetties has been built over the Okatse River and the valley carved by its waters, and groups of several people are allowed in about 10-minute intervals, so the trail is not crowded. The views are unforgettable! You can walk through the forest to the entrance to the canyon, along a marked trail that stretches for about 3 km, or drive up by car. 

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Piromanians

Niko Pirosmani, the most famous and widely recognized Georgian painter, is a figure whose fate and work are very reminiscent of Nikifor. Born in 1862 into a poor peasant family, he struggled with poverty throughout his life, painted for pennies - or for a meal, obtained paints from various sources, e.g. from coffin makers, who mainly gave him black dye, which is why many of his works are maintained in dark colors. He died in poverty. And yet his paintings, depicting primarily the pleasures of the table - supra, bring with them a great deal of joy. Raised in Kakheti, the most important wine region of Georgia, he very willingly raised the subject of feasting in his works. Today, copies of his works, which came into fashion only several decades after the artist's death, decorate restaurants, shop windows, labels of traditional products and wines (one of them is even named Pirosmani), while the originals can be found in museums in Tbilisi and Sighnaghi. Well, for the Georgian primitivist, as well as for the Polish-Lemko Nikifor, fame came much too late.

The Feast, one of Pirosmani's most famous paintings

Beaches

In Georgia you won't complain about the lack of beaches - after all Black Sea coast It is 310 km long! However, these will not be the beaches that are usually associated with holiday resorts – golden and sandy. Georgian beaches are mainly made up of pebbles and gravel of various sizes, so it is worth stocking up on a mat or an inflatable mattress, because the beach service, to put it mildly, is not of the highest standard. And which beaches are worth visiting? Certainly the most famous one, in Batumi, stretching for about 10 km, from the port to the airport. If you choose the strip of beach by the promenade, you will find many cafes and shops there, while on the outskirts you will enjoy solitude. Ureki, one of the few sandy beaches in Georgia, is completely different. And its sand is not just any sand – fine, gray-black, containing magnetite, which has a healing effect, helping with diseases of the musculoskeletal system, heart and lungs. If you want to take advantage of its physiotherapeutic properties, go back to your childhood for a moment and… bury yourself in the sand! The beach in Gonio, a small town famous for its Roman fortress, is also very pleasant. Beautiful views and clear water compensate for the sharp stones, and the length of the beach is conducive to walks along the shore (if you remember to bring water shoes or sandals with hard soles).

Ureki, Magnetiti black sand beach

Empty, beautiful beach in Gonio

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Rose Revolution 

The Rose Revolution doesn't sound scary, does it? And yet it significantly changed the history of Georgia. It was then that President Eduard Shevardnadze, who had served as First Secretary during the Soviet Union, was forced to resign. The president, accused of pursuing authoritarian policies, inefficiency, incompetence, and tolerating corruption, resorted to rigging elections, which the opposition immediately seized on. On November 22, 2003, thousands of unarmed Georgians entered the parliament in Tbilisi, holding roses in their hands, demanding Shevardnadze's resignation. As a result of this bloodless revolution, the young generation came to power, led by Mikheil Saakashvili. Saakashvili, who won the next presidential elections, introduced many reforms, thanks to which Georgia was for a time among the fastest developing countries in the world! 

Rustaveli

It is an extraordinary thing – here is a poem written at the turn of the 12th and 13th centuries, which is still one of the most popular Georgian readings, often known by heart, despite its impressive length. We are talking about “The Knight in the Panther’s Skin” by Shota Rustaveli, an artist who created during the reign of Queen Tamar, for whom he supposedly secretly sighed. Not much is known about his life – today it is believed that he was a prince who received a thorough education, knew theology, philosophy, as well as Eastern cultures and astrology, and was also supposed to have been the Minister of the Treasury and Tamar’s advisor. It was the queen who commissioned the poem and it is to her that it is dedicated, and some of the threads of the work camouflagedly reflect Rustaveli’s feelings for the monarch. The poem tells the story of the struggles of two princes to liberate the imprisoned princess, praising love, friendship, courage and strength of spirit. His characters are brave, noble and full of virtues, although by no means schematic and black and white, and the humanistic values ​​of the work, the richness of observations and artistic means mean that Rustaveli is often referred to as a representative of the Georgian Renaissance, preceding the European Renaissance by several centuries, which puts him in the same league as Shakespeare or Cervantes. Today, if you go to trip to Georgia, you will see the poet's name in many places – the main street in Tbilisi, the metro station, the Academy of Sciences, the most important theatre in the country and the Georgian State Prize are named after Rustaveli.

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Stepantsminda

The first association with Georgia, the image that appears on the covers of most brochures and guides? A small church on a green hill, and in the background – the rugged, mighty, snow-capped peaks of the Caucasus, with the majestic Kazbek at the forefront. This is of course Stepantsminda, a town located at an altitude of 1750 m above sea level, named after Saint Stephen, who according to legend saved the locals from an avalanche. The previous name, Kazbegi, has a clearly negative connotation for Georgians – it was given to the town by the Soviets, in honour of Gabriel Kazbegi, a cruel man who pacified the local anti-Russian uprising. And the most famous Georgian church is Tsminda Sameba, located at an altitude of 2170 m above sea level, a XNUMXth-century church of the Holy Trinity, which is said to have housed the most important Georgian relics in Soviet times. 

Stepantsminda, Tsminda Sameba Church

Supra

Although today it is hard to imagine Georgia without the supra, and sources suggest that the custom of feasting together arrived here before our era, its current form was formed only in the 19th century. When Georgia lost its independence and became the subject of first Russian and later Soviet domination, it was the supra that helped preserve its national identity. The word "supra" simply means "tablecloth", but it is not just an ordinary shared meal - it is a pretext for a meeting, a feast, strengthening bonds, making music. Traditionally, the table is filled with constantly served dishes, but anything can become a supra - a meeting of friends who put a bottle of wine or bread on a piece of cloth or on a bench between them, someone brings fruit or khachapuri, in a moment khinkali will appear, the smell of spicy food will spread... And the feast begins in full swing!

Supra is an integral part of Georgian tradition

Shatila 

It's only 140 km from Tbilisi, but the road you have to take takes you to another world! There is no public transport here (the only way to get here is to rent a car), the road is passable from May to November... Although "passable" is a bit of an exaggeration - driving it requires really strong nerves: paved to the letter of honour, carved out of such a steep slope that it keeps sliding on one side, and on the other rocks are flying at it. The wheels seem to barely, barely hold the road - you don't know whether to laugh or write a will! However, the views, the views make up for everything, especially those spreading out from the Datwis Dzhvari pass, located at an altitude of 2676 m above sea level. And in Shatila itself it is empty, quiet (allegedly about 20 people live there permanently), medieval towers are reflected in the surface of the Argun River... About 60 of them have survived to this day. Adjacent to each other, they create a powerful, picturesquely situated fortress. Although the drive from Tbilisi takes a good few hours, spending holidays in Georgia It's worth setting aside some time for a visit – Shatili is truly unique!

Shatila

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Tamada

The tamada is the master of ceremonies who takes care of the right atmosphere at the table during the supra by making toasts every now and then: to God, family, peace, love, etc. Toasts are usually long and unique, sometimes surprising and ambiguous, but once they were an unwritten chronicle of Georgian society. The tamada's duties also include ensuring that no one at the table drinks too much or too little. If you are invited to the supra, remember that you must not interrupt the tamada, it is also in bad taste to make toasts without being invited - but if you are asked to do so, you should not refuse. In the past, there was a rule that toasts were not made with beer, because it was supposed to mean wishing illness to the person being toasted, but now this custom is becoming a thing of the past.

Tamar

If you ask a Georgian about the golden age of Georgia, they will undoubtedly answer: the reign of David the Builder and Queen Tamar! Tamar, declared a saint of the Orthodox and Catholic churches, is considered the best ruler in the history of the country - it was even written about her that she conquered lands "that no one had ever heard of" and was called the king of kings and queen of queens. The times of her reign were marked by impressive military victories, the development of culture, architecture, painting and medicine, a period when Georgia became a real power. At the same time, the queen was not afraid to take personal matters into her own hands - when her first, arranged marriage to the Russian prince George Bogolyubsky failed due to her husband's drinking, she divorced him and then defeated him twice in battle. Her next husband, David Soslan, a descendant of the Georgian royal Bagratid dynasty, held the title of king only nominally - Tamar held all the power. Today, when travelling around Georgia, one might get the impression that only a few dozen years have passed since the time of Queen Tamar, not nearly nine centuries – she is present in toasts, stories and legends, girls are given her name and churches are named after her. There is a certain paradox in this – to put it mildly, Georgia is not one of the countries where equal rights prevail, and the patriarchal system is doing great here. I wonder what Tamar, independent and endowed with an extraordinary strength of character, would think about it?

Snow tunnels

The Caucasus Mountains are no joke in winter! The snow falls so heavily that no plow has a chance, which is why in some places it has become necessary to build special tunnels to shield the roads from the snow. Carved into the rock, they sometimes make an exceptionally picturesque view – and a great frame for photos…

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Usba

"The Witch", "The Matterhorn of the Caucasus", "The Road to Nowhere" - Ushba has many names, and each one is more dangerous. And no wonder! This one of the most characteristic peaks of the Caucasus has two peaks with a height of 4700 m above sea level and 4697 m above sea level, and conquering them is really difficult and requires considerable skills from climbers. According to legend, the eternally snow-covered peaks served as a shelter for the goddess of hunting Dali, beautiful and dangerous as Ushba herself. If, while being in the vicinity of Mestia, you see two characteristic, protruding horns, you can consider yourself really lucky - Ushba, as the highest peak in the area, attracts storms, so it is usually hidden behind a curtain of clouds. We do not recommend climbing "The Witch" if you are not an experienced climber, but you can go on a hike towards the cross towering over Mestia with a viewing platform, from where there is a wonderful panorama of the entire area.

Ushba, the Witch of the Caucasus

Ushguli

Ushguli is a magical place! Considered to be the highest situated European village – over 2100 meters above sea level, it delights with its original architecture and a fabulous view of the snow-capped Shkhara, the highest peak in Georgia and the third peak of the Caucasus. It is from here that you can go trekking to the vast Shkhara glacier, from which the Inguri River flows. In reality, Ushguli is a group of four villages: Chajashi, Zhibiani, Khvibiani, Murkmeli and Lamjurishi. Until recently, there was no running water, sewage or electricity here, and roads... well, suffice it to say that even today, from Mestia, which is less than 50 km away, it is almost a two-hour drive! About 270 people live here, not all of whom stay in the village for the winter - heavy snowfalls practically cut Ushguli off from the world for up to half a year. The impression that time has stopped here is reinforced by almost 200 Svan towers, which are a treasure of local architecture and a monument to centuries-old traditions. In some of them, simple guesthouses or cafes have been opened, but permeated with a unique atmosphere. It is also worth visiting the ethnographic museum, located in a XNUMXth-century tower, whose collections allow you to touch Svan culture and everyday life. As a souvenir, be sure to buy Svan salt, which is an extremely tasty mixture of salt and herbs.

Stone towers of Ushguli

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Vardzia

“Wardzia – I am here, uncle” – Tamar, the later magnificent monarch, is said to have cried when, lost in the forest, she heard the voice of her uncle – the king of Georgia – calling her. As in many legends, this one also has a grain of truth. Indeed, Vardzia was started to be built during the reign of George III, and was completed under his daughter, Queen Tamar. Today, walking through the labyrinths of caves carved in the rocks, somewhat resembling a honeycomb, it is hard to imagine that in the 13th century it was a huge, flourishing city, fully self-sufficient. Thousands of chambers were spread out on XNUMX levels, connected by a complex water and sewage system, to which only a few well-camouflaged tunnels led – standing at the foot of the mountain, it was impossible to guess that a whole huge city was hidden inside! Unfortunately, at the end of the XNUMXth century, an earthquake struck the area, which devastated and exposed the city. For this reason, the Persians, who attacked Vardzia in the mid-XNUMXth century, had an easier task. Destroyed and plundered, it fell into complete decline and desertion. A dozen or so monks appeared here only after Georgia regained its independence. So, when walking through the rock labyrinth, avoid those nooks where you can see traces of life - rugs, flower pots, gates made of slats protecting the entrance to miniature courtyards... You can, however, look into the church, also carved in the rock, where you can still see the darkened colors of the frescoes and look into the eyes of the immortally beautiful Tamar.

Vardzia, the city in the rock

Towers

Svaneti is full of towers! Smaller and larger, well-preserved and crumbling, transformed into museums or hotels and abandoned – there are plenty of them here. Looking at these buildings devoid of comforts, it is hard to believe that some of them were still inhabited in the mid-1996th century. They served two functions: in times of peace, the whole family lived on the ground floor of the tower, including livestock (although the towers were well-ventilated, the smell wafting through them must have been almost tangible… and its shadow can still be felt today), while during wars, everyone took refuge on the upper floors – it was enough to pull the ladders up and shoot the enemy through the windows for the tower to become an impregnable fortress. Sometimes they also served as a shelter from bloody family revenge: after all, to this day the word “Swan”, describing a resident of Svaneti, is invariably associated with the adjective “impetuous”! Some of these towers date back to the XNUMXth century, being such unique and extraordinary structures that in XNUMX the Upper Svaneti region was included on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Some of them are open to visitors, for example in Mestia it is worth seeing the Margiani family tower, where you can see traditional Svan furniture, a hay rack, and a wine cellar with amphorae. Right next to it is another museum, full of icons, furniture and other exhibits showing the life of the Svans.

The Tower of Love, named after the girl who died of love in it.

Wine

Although it is by no means common knowledge, it is Georgia – not France or Italy – that is the cradle of world winemaking! Traces of grape cultivation and wine production discovered in the territory of present-day Georgia and Armenia date back to 8 thousand years ago. Interestingly, wine is still produced in a way that has remained almost unchanged since ancient times: in huge earthenware vessels called kvevri, buried in the ground. There are five main wine regions in Georgia, the most important of which is Kakheti, which is to this country what Piedmont is to Italy and Bordeaux is to France, where 70% of all Georgian wines are made and where you will find 14 of the 18 recognized appellations. When sipping Georgian wine, you have to prepare your palate for previously unknown flavors: no international grape varieties are planted here, only local ones, of which there are up to 500! The most important grape varieties are the red saperavi, nicknamed "blood of giants", smelling of ripe forest fruits, and two white wines - tsinandali with the aroma of peaches and apricots and rkatsiteli, one of the oldest grape varieties in the world, from which wines with the aroma of apples, quince and mirabelle plums are made.

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Golden Fleece 

The quest for the golden fleece, Jason's quest, the Argonauts' quest – you probably don't need to read Parandowski to associate all these terms. According to Greek mythology, the golden fleece was supposed to be the golden skin of the lamb Chrysomallos, guarded by an undefeated dragon. Of course – undefeated only until Jason, aided by Medea, stepped into action… Already in modern times, this term began to function figuratively, symbolizing hard-to-achieve but extremely valuable things – wealth, knowledge, achievements. However, the sources of the myth are probably very prosaic – in Colchis, where Jason went, i.e. in the area of ​​today's Svaneti, highlanders sifted gold from river sand using… sheepskin. Such skin was immersed in the river, then dried in the sun, and the gold dust was shaken off.